Today is my niece Maggie’s 17th birthday.

Soccer Bear is carved from a basswood block, three inches tall and one inch square.
Today is my niece Maggie’s 17th birthday.

Soccer Bear is carved from a basswood block, three inches tall and one inch square.
I’m not a big sports fan. I enjoyed watching football when I was younger, but I stopped watching even that about 25 years ago. I like playing sports, but watching them generally leaves me cold. That said, I do enjoy watching the highlights of some matches.
I ran across rugby again few weeks ago. I’d of course seen rugby when I was younger, but at the time my impression of the game was a bunch of guys playing what we used to call smear the queer. (And please note that at the time “queer” just meant “the guy with the ball.”) In any event, I’ve become somewhat fascinated by this game that is considered the national sport in New Zealand, Lebanon (by law!), Papua New Guinea, and South Africa, and very popular in many other countries. It’s not as popular as soccer in most countries, but it has a huge following throughout most of the world.
Rugby is kind of like full contact soccer, except that you can pick up the ball and run with it. The game looks to be faster than soccer, though, with a lot more movement up and down the field. Think of American football without the huddle.
There are several things that interest me about the game. First, although players do specialize, the degree of specialization is not like football. Every player on the team must be able to run with the ball, pass the ball, kick, and tackle. There is no blocking in rugby, so there’s no need for the big offensive linemen. Speed, stamina, and agility are the keys.
As I said before, the game is action-packed. Rather than a huddle after each tackle, and then the players lining up like 16th century armies before a battle, the ball is placed into play almost immediately. There are short breaks after scoring, for penalties, and out of bounds, but for the most part the game goes on non-stop. Two 40-minute halfs with a break between them. This might be one reason the game hasn’t caught on in the U.S.: there are no convenient places to insert commercials.
Although rugby is a full contact sport, there’s little in the way of protective equipment used. Some players wear what look like padded leather helmets, but I get the idea it’s more to protect the ears. You still see hard hits, but most tackles involve arms around legs rather than shoulders or heads slammed into armored bodies. Perhaps I’m being naive, but to me the game looks much more civilized than American football.
It turns out that there are two forms of rugby widely played: rugby union, and rugby league. The games share the same origin. Rugby league was created in 1895 and the rules changed to encourage a more spectator-friendly game. Rugby league is a faster and more exciting game with fewer breaks in the action than rugby union.
I don’t know that I’ll become a fan or even sit down to watch an entire rugby match, but I’ve certainly enjoyed watching the highlights videos on YouTube. Here’s one example from the recent Four Nations Rugby tournament:
In a speech before a joint session of Congress in September, the President said that his “preferred” package for health care finance reform legislation would carry a price tag of around $900 billion. He also said that he will not sign a bill that raises deficits.
On October 29, the Congressional Budget Office released a preliminary analisys of the Affordable Health Care for America Act (H.R. 3962). According to the summary in that analysis, “enacting H.R. 3962 would result in a net reduction in federal budget deficits of $104 billion over the 2010-2019 period.” Sounds good, right? Let’s take a look.
On page 2, under Estimated Bugetary Impact of H.R. 3962:
According to CBO and JCT’s assessment, enacting H.R. 3962 would result in a net reduction in federal budget deficits of $104 billion over the 2010-2019 period (see Table 1). In the subsequent decade, the collective effect of its provisions would probably be slight reductions in federal budget deficits. Those estimates are all subject to substantial uncertainty.
(Italics are mine)
That section goes on to summarize the costs and benefits of the bill. Total costs are estimated at $1,055 billion, partially offset “by $167 billion in collections of penalties paid by individuals and employers.” (Penalties for not maintaining the mandated health insurance coverage.) The projected net cost is $894 billion. So how do we get from a net cost of $894 billion to a surplus of $104 billion? “[S]pending changes, which the CBO estimates would save $426 billion, and receipts resulting from the income tax surcharge on high-income individuals and other provisions, which JCT and CBO estimate would increase federal revenues by $572 billion over that period.”
So the President and Congress weren’t entirely truthful when they said that they’re going to pay for this program by cutting waste, fraud, and abuse. They’re going to do what politicians always do: raise taxes and hope for the best. Oh, and they’re going to force employers to either offer health insurance coverage or pay a penalty equal to eight percent of their payroll. What used to be an incentive–an added benefit of employment–has now become a federal mandate. If employers were smart they’d just pay the 8% penalty. That has to be less expensive than the health insurance plans most of them provide.
What the press, the White House, and members of Congress won’t tell you about is what else the CBO report says. For example, under Effect of H.R. 3962 on Discretionary Costs, the report says:
CBO has not completed a comprehensive estimate of the discretionary costs that would be associated with H.R. 3962. Total costs would include those arising from the effects of H.R. 3962 on a variety of federal programs and agencies as well as from a number of new and existing programs subject to future appropriations.
In other words, there are hidden costs. What are they? The report doesn’t say in detail, but it gives a few examples:
I like that last sentence. The Committee on the Budget told CBO not to count $34 billion of costs associated with this legislation. At least the CBO is up front about it. It’d be interesting to ask the Committee members about that one, wouldn’t it?
Anyway, if you add up those costs, which the CBO identified as “major”, but not all inclusive, you end up with an additional $44 to $54 billion, plus whatever those grant programs would cost. That $104 billion “savings” is now $50 billion. Even less when you include the grant programs and other costs that this preliminary report doesn’t specifically mention.
Oh, and then there are Important Caveats Regarding This Preliminary Analysis. The first item is particularly interesting. The report is based on preliminary legislation rather than the bill as actually introduced. Also, “the analysis does not reflect all of the provisions of the bill.”
In other words, there are MORE hidden costs.
The final section, estimating effects of the legislation beyond the first ten years, says that it will decrease deficits slightly. But it also has a few caveats of its own:
These longer-term projections assume that the provisions of H.R. 3962 are enacted and remain unchanged throughout the next two decades, which is often not the case for major legislation. For example, the SGR mechanism governing Medicare’s payments to physicians has frequently been modified to avoid reductions in those payments, and legislation to do so again is currently under consideration in the Congress. The bill would put into effect (or leave in effect) a number of procedures that might be difficult to maintain over a long period of time. It would leave in place the 21 percent reduction in the payment rates for physicians currently scheduled for 2010. At the same time, the bill includes a number of provisions that would constrain payment rates for other providers of Medicare services. In particular, increases in payment rates for many providers would be held below the rate of inflation (in expectation of ongoing productivity improvements in the delivery of health care). Based on the extrapolation described above, CBO expects that Medicare spending under the bill would increase at an average annual rate of roughly 6 percent during the next two decades-well below the roughly 8 percent annual growth rate of the past two decades, despite a growing number of Medicare beneficiaries as the baby-boom generation retires.
The long-term budgetary impact of H.R. 3962 could be quite different if those provisions generating savings were ultimately changed or not fully implemented. If those changes arose from future legislation, CBO would estimate their costs when that legislation was being considered by the Congress.
In other words, any projected savings is wishful thinking.
Honestly, you should read the report. It’s only 27 pages long, and about half of those are tables of numbers. Just reading the report without the numbers should be enough to convince you that this bill, like all the others, is a budget buster.
And, of course, that analysis was based on the bill as introduced on October 29. It was hailed as an “894 billion dollar” package. Today, the press is saying a “1.2 trillion dollar” package. I’m unable today to find any information about the additional $330 billion or how it’ll be offset by revenue so that the legislation remains budget neutral.
Not to be outdone, the Republicans published their own plan for health care finance reform. It has no chance of being passed, which is a good thing. The CBO estimate says that it will cover fewer people and will save $68 billion over 10 years. In other words, it’s just a way for Republicans to say, “See? We have a plan!”
Nobody in Congress has the courage to stand up and say, “Stop!” Where’s the voice of moderation here? Congress will mandate billion dollar multi-year environmental impact studies before doing something trivial, but now wants to push through, without sufficient study, legislation that will have a huge impact on every citizen in the country. Why? Because they can and because they think it will get them votes. For all their pronouncements about it being “good for the country” and “the right thing to do,” that’s all they’re really interested in: re-election. Otherwise they’d be much more concerned about the real costs of what they’re so eager to support.
The President has said publicly that he will not sign (or did he say that he would veto it?) a bill that “adds one penny” to the budget deficit. It’s probably too much to expect the President to subject any legislation to extensive real world analysis, so I’ll have to be content with the CBO’s final report. But if, as I suspect, the bill that will be presented for a vote in the House on Saturday turns out to require deficit spending, I will expect the President to keep his word.
About a month ago, Debra and I started noticing that hot water pressure was lower than normal. At first I thought it was my imagination, but it steadily got worse. My first hypothesis was sediment in the tank, which fit with what others online will say. So I hooked up a hose, drained the tank, flushed it a bit, and then refilled it. Still low pressure.
My next thought was to verify that the problem was with the water heater and not somewhere else in the pipes. So I connected the cold water input directly to the hot water output, removing the water heater completely from the system. The resulting high pressure from the hot water side confirmed that the problem was indeed with the water heater.
It took a little looking around, but I finally found the problem: the 3″ brass nipple that connects the water heater with the hot water pipes in the house was clogged with sediment. It was so clogged that I’m surprised any water was coming out. I’m a little embarrassed that it took me so long to check that out. But since I had so much time in the project and it looked like I wouldn’t have to replace the water heater, I decided to refurbish it a bit.
Electric heating elements for my water heater are about $10 each. Those and two replacement nipples, plus gaskets for the input and output, and the special tool for removing the elements set me back a total of about $25. It was a pretty big time investment, though. Draining the water heater takes a long time. A few things to keep in mind (some of which I learned from experience):
One other thing. Electric water heaters contain a sacrificial anode rod that helps prevent corrosion of the tank. The idea is that the anode, being a more active metal than what the tank is made of, will corrode first. As long as there’s a more active metal than the tank’s metal, the tank won’t corrode (or will do so much more slowly). Water heater warrantees are typically based on how long the manufacturer thinks the anode rod will last. You can replace the anode rod. I haven’t tried it yet.
Most manufacturers recommend that you drain a few quarts from your water heater every three months (some say every month). That will prevent sediment buildup in your tank. They recommend draining the tank and inspecting the elements annually. They also recommend an annual inspection of the anode rod.
By the way, elements that are covered in corrosion don’t work very well at all. They require a lot more electricity to generate the same amount of heat as new elements. Especially if you have very hard water, you’re probably money ahead if you replace the elements annually. The money you save in electricity will more than offset the cost of the new elements, and your water will heat much faster.
Most people (myself included, usually) never think about their water heater until they have no hot water or they notice a leak. That’s too bad, because with a little periodic maintenance a water heater can last 15 or 20 years rather than the five or so years that they typically last these days. Considering the cost of a replacement water heater and installation (sometimes over $1,000) and the aggravation of a leaking heater or no hot water, you’re much better off with the periodic maintenance.
If you’re having a problem with your water heater, a good place to look for a solution is Waterheaterrescue.com. Whereas it’s true that they’re trying to sell you things, they have very good information about common problems and simple solutions. Oh, and in case you’re interested in how this stuff works: How Water Heaters Work.
Enough about knives, safety, and wood. Let’s talk about what to carve. If you’re new to wood carving, then you probably should start with simple projects so that you can get comfortable with holding the knife and using the basic cuts. A good place to start is Gene Messer‘s 3-part series on Whittling The 5 Minute Bear. If you don’t particularly like bears, you can try his 5 Minute Wizard. I found both projects to be excellent for learning basic techniques. And for refining techniques. I’ve carved dozens of each in the last six months.
Just don’t get impatient. It’ll probably take you an hour or more the first time you try one of these.
The first project I did when I started carving a year ago was the pinecone ornament from Little Shavers. Arleen at carverswoodshop recently made a video series about carving and painting this ornament. Arleen starts with a pattern that she’s cut out on the band saw rather than from a raw block of wood as described on the Little Shaver’s Web site. That’ll save you some time paring down the block of wood, but don’t worry if you don’t have a bandsaw. You’ll just have to work a little harder.
Another good project, although a little more difficult for a beginner, is the Santa tree ornament. I recently discovered a YouTube video series showing how to carve this ornament. It’s well worth the time to watch, especially if you’re a beginner.
Gene and Arleen both have many beginner projects, some that start with a raw block of wood, and others that start with a bandsaw cutout. If you don’t have a bandsaw, you’ll probably be most interested in those that start with just a block of wood. I suggest that you go preview the videos and find one that you like and think you’re ready to try.
Beginners Carving Corner has a lot of simple and fun projects for the beginning carver. Try the 5 Minute Owl, the gnome, the Old World Santa, or the Civil War Soldier.
I also highly recommend that you join the Woodcarving Illustrated message board, where a lot of experienced carvers hang out and share their knowledge of knives, wood, and all things carving. It’s free to join, the members are very willing to answer beginners’ questions, and you get to see a lot of different types of carving. It’s likely that you’ll find something there that you will want to carve.
There are a lot of other resources for beginners, but that’ll get you started. As you tour the message boards, blogs, and videos, you’ll learn about other sites that have beginner projects. And it’s all free. Ya gotta love the Internet.
It’s important to remember is that you’re just starting out. It’s unlikely that your first 5 Minute Wizard will look as good as the one in Gene’s video. He’s been carving for 15 years or more. But don’t get discouraged. Your first wizard probably will be recognizable as a wizard, and your second, third, and so on will get better. With every project you do, you’ll build confidence and skill. It just takes a little bit of patience.
Most important, though, is to have fun. The worst thing that can happen is you botch a project and end up with a bit of designer firewood. I’ve collected my share over the last 12 months. If you do botch a project or get to where you don’t know where to go with it, you might set it aside. You just might come back to that scrap a few months later and see where you can fix your mistake or make something completely different from the botched project.
So get your knife, sit down in front of a video, and start carving. It’s one of the least expensive hobbies I know of, and very rewarding.
I recently had the need to delve into the world of JSON (Java Script Object Notation) to read some data from a particular Web site. For my purposes, the simple JSON reader provided by .NET worked just fine. The way it works is interesting: you call JsonReaderWriterFactory.CreateJsonReader, and it returns an XmlReader instance. That’s right, it converts the JSON to XML behind the scenes. Apparently there are some limitations in how it handles nested structures, but I didn’t encounter them. That’s useful thing #1.
I discovered useful thing #2 when my XmlReader threw an exception trying to parse the JSON I fed it. I originally thought that the problem was with the JSON-to-XML conversion. But then I fed the JSON to JSONLint. It turns out that the string "It\'s an error" contains an error. Escaping the apostrophe is an error in JSON. There are only a handful of characters that can be legally escaped. It’s nice to know that the site was in error and not my JSON-to-XML converter. Either way, I still have to gracefully handle the error.
I had hoped to use the Windows command FINDSTR as a substitute for grep. No such luck. FINDSTR has two problems that make it marginally useful at best. First, there’s no switch that corresponds to grep’s --only-matching (-o) option. If you specify --only-matching, then grep outputs only the text that matches the query expression rather than outputting the entire line that contains the match. FINDSTR lacks that option, making it useless for many of the things I do.
The other problem is very odd. Both grep and FINDSTR are line-oriented tools. But FINDSTR’s definition of a line is inconsistent when working with files whose lines end with just a line feed. For example, if I’m looking for all lines that contain the text “.xml”, I’d write this:
FINDSTR /R "\.xml" file.txt
The /R switch tells FINDSTR to treat the search string as a regular expression. I could have done a literal search in this instance, but I want to illustrate the error. FINDSTR correctly finds and outputs all of the lines that contain the string “.xml”.
What I really want, though, is just those lines that end with “.xml”. So the command would be:
FINDSTR /R "\.xml$" file.txt
FINDSTR doesn’t find any lines that end in “.xml” unless I convert the file so that it has CR/LF line ends. grep correctly handles both line end conventions. Since I can’t guarantee the format of the files I work with (I often am working with files that I download with wget), FINDSTR is practically useless if I’m doing regular expression searches.
My advice, download GNU Grep for Windows.
Well, it seemed like a box. When we lived in Scottsdale, Debra and I did a lot of our grocery shopping at Price Club (since purchased by Costco). One day we needed crushed red peppers. But you can’t get a small jar of anything at those membership stores. We ended up with 12 ounces of crushed red peppers.

That was 1990 or 1991. 12 oz. of crushed red pepper goes a long way.
It’s been something of a running joke between us since then. I’d get out the peppers to spice up my pizza and joke that we’re running out. About a year ago we really were running out and from time to time we’d dump in the contents of those little crushed red pepper packets we’d get from the pizza place. I think Debra even added some of the dried peppers that she put up a few years back when we had the bumper crop.
Last night we put the last of the crushed red pepper in the chili. I guess we’re back to scavenging from the pizza packets until we make it to the grocery store. I suspect our next container won’t hold anywhere near 12 ounces.
This was a gift for a friend’s birthday. It’s carved from a 3″ x 1″ x 1″ piece of basswood. I hope to use this basic design (shape of the head and general proportion) for a number of different caricatures. This one is the prototype.

My latest crawler modifications require me to scrape Web pages that host videos so that I can obtain metadata (title, description, date posted, etc.) that we place in our index. Unfortunately, there’s no standard way for sites to present such information. ESPN and Vimeo have HTML <meta> tags that provide some info, but I have to go parsing through the body of the document to find the date. (And yes, I’m aware that Vimeo has an API that will make this a moot point. I’ll be investigating that soon.)
Other sites are much worse in that they provide no metadata in the HTML. For example, one site’s video page is very code-heavy. Requiring that the page be reloaded every time you request a new video would require a lot of network traffic. Their design instead uses JavaScript to request a particular video’s metadata from a server. Loading a new video involves downloading just a few kilobytes of data.
I spent some time this afternoon searching through the a video page HTML and the associated JavaScript, looking for the magic incantation that would get me the data I’m looking for. The amount of code involved is staggering, and I quickly went crosseyed trying to decipher it before I hit on the idea of hooking up a sniffer to see if I could identify the HTTP request that gets the data.
It took me all of five minutes to download and install Free Http Sniffer, request a video from the site in question, and locate the magic line in the 230 or so requests that the page makes when it loads. Problem solved. Now all I have to do is write code that’ll transform a video page url into a request for the metadata, and I’m set.
I have no idea why I didn’t think of the sniffer earlier. I’d used one before for a similar purpose. I suspect I’ll be making heavy use of it in the near future as I expand the number of sites that we crawl for media.
The most commonly used carving wood in the U.S. is kiln dried basswood. The wood is relatively soft, but hard enough to hold fine detail. The softness and uniformity of the wood make it easier to carve than most other woods. It’s also very light colored, allowing paints to cover it fairly easily.
Basswood in the U.S. is usually categorized as northern or southern, based on where it was grown. In general, northern basswood is better for carving because it’s lighter in color and and the grain is tighter (because the tree grows more slowly).
You can buy basswood in many different places, but the quality and price will vary widely. Craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s sell basswood carving blocks in small packages at ridiculously high prices. I found basswood from Michael’s to be of very low quality: poor color, splinters easily, and is in general less uniform than what I’ve obtained from other sources.
Woodcraft and other woodworking shops also sell basswood. You can buy individual blocks or “grab boxes” that contain blocks of varying sizes. The individual blocks will be of somewhat higher quality than the wood in the grab boxes, but at a higher price.
Almost every online source that sells carving supplies will also sell basswood. The wood you buy from these sites comes in three forms: blocks, cutouts, and roughouts. A block is what you expect: just a block of wood. Included with blocks are dowels, eggs, spheres, and other basic shapes from which you’re expected to carve something.
A cutout is a block of wood that’s been cut to the basic finished shape. Typically this is done on a bandsaw. A simple example is shown below: the cutout I made for my little dog, and the finished product.
A roughout includes more detail than the cutout. Most of the figure is “roughed out” so that all you need to add are details. A good example is Herby’s Angel Roughout. Expect to pay more for a cutout than for a block, and more for a roughout than for a cutout.
Let me stress that whichever you choose is fine. Some people like whittling away all the waste wood and are happy starting with a block of wood. Others find roughing things out annoying and want to get right to the detail, which they find most interesting. Most carvers I know have worked with blocks, cutouts, and roughouts. As far as I know, there isn’t a stigma attached to which of the above you start with. I’ve never seen a carver look down on somebody’s carving because he started with a roughout rather than a block.
The consensus of carvers I know is that Heinecke Wood Products is the place to buy basswood in bulk. The wood is very high quality, the prices are very good (even when you take the shipping cost into account), and their customer service is first rate. I bought a bunch of practice sticks from them and have been very happy with the quality of the wood. But shipping charges will eat you up if you’re ordering small quantities.
My suggestion if you’re just starting is to visit your local Woodcraft or similar store and get a grab box of blocks, or find a place to order it online. The wood probably won’t be as good quality as what you’ll get from Heinecke, but the price is very reasonable and you’ll get an idea if this carving thing is something that you want to persue.
Another source for basswood (and other woods, for that matter) is cabinet shops and other businesses that work with wood. You might stop by a cabinet shop and ask them if you can have their cutoffs. Some will sell them to you at a very reasonable price. Others will be happy to give you more wood than you can possibly carve in a lifetime. The wood will be of varying quality, but you can’t beat the price.
Although basswood is by far the most common wood used for carving, you can carve just about any type of wood. I’ll talk more about that next time.
Before I move on to wood and beginner projects, I should talk a little bit about safety.
Unless you’re a chef or a surgeon, or have some other job that requires you to play with sharp implements, your carving knife will most likely be the sharpest knife you’ve ever had. A year ago I thought I knew how to sharpen a knife. And in Boy Scout circles, I did. Yes, I could shave hairs off my arm with my pocket knife. But even that’s dull compared to the edge you’ll find on a good carving knife. If you’re not careful you can do some serious damage to yourself with that knife.
You’d be well served to get a carving glove and a thumb guard when you buy your carving knife. The glove is made from Kevlar and will usually prevent a cut when your knife slips. It can’t stop all cuts, and it won’t prevent a stab (i.e. hitting your hand with the point of the knife). But it will stop most slices. You wear the glove on your holding hand: the one that’s not holding the knife. The thumb guard is for your knife hand, to protect the thumb when you’re pulling the knife towards yourself in much the same way you’d peel an apple.
There are carvers who don’t wear a glove or thumb guard. There are also carvers who will tell you that they wish they had worn them. I haven’t cut myself when wearing the glove and thumb guard. I have, however, cut myself when not wearing them. That’s good enough reason for me to make sure I have my safety gear.
You’ve probably heard that you’re more likely to cut yourself with a dull knife than with a sharp one. That appears to be true, even though the idea seems counter-intuitive. Consider:
The knife is designed for cutting, not prying. If you try to pry with the knife, you’re likely to break the blade. Not only does this ruin the knife, but that tip can become an eye-seeking projectile.
The old Boy Scout rule I remember was to create a “zone of safety” around myself whenever I was holding a knife. Whenever somebody came within arm’s reach, I was to stop whittling and close the knife. It’s a good idea to keep that in mind when you’re carving. If somebody approaches, stop carving and put the knife down. Or put the blade cover on the knife and hold it.
Never take your eyes off the blade when you’re carving. Yes, there are blind carvers, but the rest of us depend primarily on our eyes to tell where the blade is. If you take your eyes off the blade, it’s as likely to cut your hand as it is the wood.
Don’t put your hands or other parts of your body in front of the blade, and when you catch yourself thinking that a particular cut you’re about to attempt is a bad idea, stop and think about what you’re doing. As always, the most important part of safety is using your brain to keep yourself from getting hurt.
A good sharp knife is the only essential tool you need in order to get started with whittling or wood carving. Well, you’ll also need a way to keep the knife sharp. Other than that, everything else is optional. Just like the bike doesn’t make the cyclist, the toolbox doesn’t make the carver. I’ve seen some beautifully intricate work done with “just a knife” that most carvers couldn’t duplicate even if they had the best tool collection in the world. There is no substitute for experience.
You might be tempted to just grab any old knife, put an edge on it, and start hacking away on a piece of wood. I strongly discourage that. Although it’s possible to be productive with any kind of blade, you’re better off with a knife that’s designed for carving wood. The handle is designed to fit comfortably in your hand. The steel is selected for a good balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening, the blade is thinner than on most pocket knives, and it’s typically shaped for a specific purpose. I have enjoyed carving a lot more since I bought my first purpose-built carving knife.
You can get a good carving knife for about $15. I think you’re wasting money if you spend more than $30 for your first knife. If you buy from a reputable supplier, the knife will come to you sharp and ready to go. The first carving knife I bought was the Flexcut KN12 Cutting Knife, that I picked up at the local Woodcraft store for $15 or $20. Although certainly not the best knife in the world, this one opened my eyes to a completely new world of carving. The blade shape, its sharpness, and the way it fit in my hand improved my carving almost overnight and convinced me to use purpose-built tools.
Although I haven’t used one, I’ve had several people tell me that the Murphy bench knife is a great beginner’s knife. At under $15 for this knife, it’s hard to justify using an old pocket knife for wood carving.
About two months ago, on recommendation from others, I bought a Shipley/Wells 1-3/8″ Detail Blade (item 50720 on that page). I now use the Wells knife for all of my small carvings in basswood, and I’m using the Flexcut almost exclusively for my “found wood” (oak, mesquite, and random other woods I pick up) work. My pocket knife rarely cuts wood these days. No matter how sharp I make it, it can’t compare to either of the carving knives, and the handle is too small to be comfortable in my hand.
Sharp is good. Dull is bad. Or, as Chris Lubkeman says in his Little Book of Whittling (a great little book, by the way):
Ten Extremely Import Rules of Carving
- Make sure your knife is sharp.
- Your knife must be really sharp.
- Don’t try carving with a knife that isn’t sharp.
- Before starting to carve, check your knife to see if it’s sharp.
- Carving with a less-than-very-sharp knife is very frustrating!
- In the realm of woodcarving, sharp is good, dull is bad.
- Keep your knife sharp!
- If your knife is really sharp, it will cut better.
- If you missed the point of Rules 1 through 8, make sure the knife you carve with is sharp!
- If there’s any remaining doubt, refer back to Rules 1 through 9.
Unless you damage the blade, you shouldn’t ever have to sharpen your carving knife. The secret is to maintain the edge so that it never gets dull. The best way to do that is with a leather strop that has some kind of polishing compound on it. Take a break every 15 or 20 minutes during your carving and strop your knife on the leather. Strop more frequently if you feel the blade becoming dull or if you’re carving harder woods. If you follow this rule, then your knife never has the opportunity to become dull.
Although you can make a strop from an old belt or other piece of leather, I recommend that you buy one or at least examine a few before you decide to make one yourself.
If you buy a strop, it’ll come with simple instructions. Briefly:
The compound you place on the strop is a very fine abrasive. In a sense, it is “sharpening”, although it’s more like polishing.
Frequent stropping will prevent the blade from ever becoming dull and requiring you to perform real sharpening with stones or other equipment.
Always cover your knife blade when you’re not using it. There are two reasons to cover the blade: your own safety and protecting the blade. You can make a blade cover from a piece of wood, or use cork or other material. Don’t use a cork that was previously used for wine, though. The moisture in the cork will rust your blade.
One last thing: your carving knife is meant for wood carving. Don’t use it to open packages, clean your fingernails, filet a fish, or anything else you’d use your pocket knife or some other blade for. The carving knife will certainly do the job most of the time, but you risk damaging the blade. Use the carving knife for carving, and nothing else.
Inevitably, you’ll damage a blade. Even experienced carvers drop a knife from time to time. If the edge becomes damaged or dulled, you can try to sharpen it yourself or you can send it off to be sharpened. I recommend that you learn how to sharpen a knife yourself, but until you’ve gained some experience with other blades, you’ll probably want to send your carving knives to a professional.
I highly recommend Little Shavers Wood Carving Supply for all things carving related. They have a wide selection of tools and their prices are competitive. More importantly, they’re great people to work with. Their customer service is first rate. The tools I’ve bought from them have come in razor sharp and ready to carve. If you buy a tool from them, they’ll sharpen it for free at any time. All you pay is the actual shipping cost. If you want them to sharpen a tool you didn’t purchase there, the cost is $3 per tool, plus shipping.
Almost all wood carvers are tool collectors. I’ve met carvers who have tens of thousands of dollars invested in tools: knives of all shapes and sizes, chisels, gouges, scoops, hook knives, and exotic blade shapes that I can’t even imagine a use for. But ask them which tool they’d pick if they could only have one, and almost invariably the result will be a fairly common carving knife. Everything else is nice to have, but optional.
As with any other hobby, my advice for wood carving is to start simple and build slowly. Remember: the tool doesn’t know how to carve wood. Get a good carving knife and learn how to use and maintain it. Start with simple projects and move on to more complex things as you gain more control over and comfort with the knife. The time to buy other tools is when you find that there’s something you’d like to do that you can’t do with the knife or that would be more easily accomplished with another tool. Don’t waste your money buying tools just to collect them or because you might need them in the future. Doing so will just frustrate you.
Next time I’ll talk a bit about carving wood and some simple projects.
We’ve had a relatively calm hurricane season this year. According to the National Hurricane Center, we’ve had eight storms: two hurricanes, five tropical storms, and one tropical depression. That’s a far cry from the past eleven years in which the number of storms has been in the teens. Except for 2005, when we had a whopping 28 storms, including 15 hurricanes with four of them reaching Category 5. A Category 5 storm is rare indeed: there have been 32 of them recorded since 1851.
The National Weather Service or its forebears has been keeping information on hurricanes and tropical storms since 1851. Perhaps before, but the records available from the NHC only go back that far. You can download the raw data from 1851 through 2008 from the NHC’s Hurricane Research Division. The data isn’t in the most convenient format—a text file of fixed fields—but parsing it with a C# program proved to be easy enough, and within an hour or so I was examining the data.
The last ten years of hurricane activity has raised many concerns that climate change is increasing the number of storms and the intensity of the storms. Looking at the historical record, it’s impossible not to draw the conclusion that 11 consecutive years with 10 or more storms is anomalous. It’s way out there. No other 10-year period has had even close to that number of storms.
I created a dump of the data to a comma-separated format so that I could massage it with Microsoft Excel. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not an Excel expert, but I can do the basics and create usable if not especially nice looking charts. In Excel, I created two charts: one examining the number of hurricanes each year, and another showing average storm intensities. If you like, you can download my Excel file with the raw data and the charts.
Let’s talk a bit about those charts. This first chart has two sections: storms per year, and storms per year that hit the U.S. There are also lines for the 5- and 20-year rolling averages.
The top part of the chart is the storms per year, and the bottom part is storms that hit the U.S. Looking at the chart, there’s no doubt that recent hurricane activity is far out of the ordinary. Even the 20-year rolling average shows a sharp uptick starting around 1995. And in general we seem to be having quite a few more storms over the past 60 years than previously. But there are a few things about the data that make me wonder how much I can trust it.
It’s interesting that, although the average number of storms increased sharply from 1935 to 1953 or so and then plateaued, the average number of storms hitting the U.S. doesn’t show a similar increase. This makes me wonder if global weather patterns tend to cycle, pushing hurricanes towards the U.S. in some years and pushing them away in other years. The other possible explanation is detection bias. That is, it’s quite likely that prior to 1935 we just didn’t have the technology to detect hurricanes that didn’t hit any major population centers. That wouldn’t explain the increase since 1995, but it certainly could explain the increase from 1935 to 1953.
The second chart shows average storm intensities, along with 5- and 20-year rolling averages. Excel did a poor job of converting this graph to a .GIF. Download the Excel file if you want more readable text.
I computed the average storm intensity by multiplying the number of tropical storms by 1, category 1 hurricanes by 2, etc., adding it all up and dividing by the total number of storms. So if you had two tropical storms and three Category 1 storms in a year, the average intensity would be ((2 * 1) + (3 * 2))/5, or 1.6. The 5- and 20-year averages summed the number of storms in each category, did the multiplication, and then divided by the total number of storms. I didn’t fall for the “average of averages” trick.
The interesting thing about this chart is that recent average storm intensity is at or below the historical norm. The high point in the 20-year rolling average is in the late 1960s.
I’m not sure what conclusions, if any, to draw here. Well, I can draw one for sure: the recent hurricane activity is way above normal. Why we’re getting that activity is something I’ll leave to climate scientists. Other than that, I just have questions. Two in particular:
I was a little surprised to find just how far current activity is from “normal.” I expected it to be perhaps a little unusual. I’m not yet ready to call it a trend, although if the next ten years are as active, I’ll start wondering what the heck is going on.
I’d be interested in any comments you have about the raw data, my methods, or my interpretations of the data presented. I am not prepared, though, to have a discussion about what’s causing the recent spike in hurricane activity, because I haven’t yet seen a credible hypothesis. The honest climate scientists have said that they don’t know yet. Perhaps more on that another time.
I spent last weekend at my friend’s ranch in Ranger, TX. For the most part, we just sat around under the awning, laughing at the antics of the guineas as they wandered around looking for grasshoppers and other delicacies. And, of course, I did a bit of carving.
First was this little basswood bear that we named Whiskey Bear. He guards Mike’s whiskey. We finished him with ashes from the fire. Whiskey Bear is standing on the back of a spoon that I started but wasn’t able to finish because I dropped my gouge and boogered up the edge.
The spoon is carved from a piece of the apple tree that died on the property. The whole thing is about five inches long.
The owl below is about 2 1/2 inches tall, carved from a piece of oak. I started this at home a couple of weeks ago and set it aside. Found it in my carving box on Saturday and decided to finish it.
I’ve been programming computers for a long time. Getting paid to write computer programs, even, which I thought was pretty darned funny when I first started. People were paying me to do something that I loved. But I digress.
After 30 years, you’d think that I would have learned that there’s no such thing as a small change that you can push into production code without having to test. You might get away with it from time to time, but eventually that arrogance is going to cost you.
But, hey, it’s a simple change! What could go wrong?
When you hear yourself say that, think about what you’re saying. And then spend the few minutes it will take to test your assumption. If nothing else, you’ll save yourself the embarrassment of explaining to your business partner that you made the kind of mistake that you’d reprimand an employee for.
Fortunately, all it cost me was a little embassassment, a few hours’ lost sleep, and an additional hour of down time for the crawler. I got off easy.
Today you can buy a one-terabyte Seagate drive online for $80, shipping included. That works out to about 8 cents per gigabyte. In August of 2003, I paid 80 bucks for a 120 GB drive: about 67 cents per gigabyte. If you adjust for inflation, I got eight times as much storage for about $10 less money. According to The Inflation Calculator $80 today is about the same as $70 in 2003.
So how much is a terabyte, really? If you’re into music, you can get one million minutes (694 days) of music on a terabyte drive, assuming a megabyte a minute (reasonable quality MP3). VCR quality video is about 10 megabytes a minute, so you could get about 70 days of video. DVD video is quite a bit more expensive, but you could still store 500 two-hour movies on your terabyte drive.
So what else can you do with a terabyte? Consider: human speech is historically recorded at 8,000 samples per second, requiring about 64 kilobits per second. Current compression techniques can drop that to 8 kbits/sec with almost no perceptible loss in quality. Figure one kilobyte per second. A thousand seconds per megabyte. A billion seconds in a terabyte. How long is a billion seconds? Google calculator says 31.69 years.
Imagine somebody with a voice recorder that’s always on. Everything he says or hears is recorded and stored. Furthermore, he has a program that can go through the recordings and create a phoneme transcript of every conversation. That’s possible with current technology. It’s even possible (with some errors) to identify individual speakers (i.e. Speaker 1, Speaker 2, etc.) With a little human input, the program could identify speakers by name. A little more work, all with technology available today, and a person could have a database of tagged transcripts containing every conversation he’s had.
I don’t know about you, but I’m a little uncomfortable with the idea that everything I say is subject to being recorded without my knowledge and reported at some point in the future. Worse, given enough samples, a person with evil intent could easily construct a very convincing version of me saying things that I never said. I don’t think I’m worth all that trouble, but there are plenty of people who are, and who perhaps should be somewhat concerned by the possibility.
Checking Facebook tonight, I got a notification that I had hidden some applications from my news feed. Thank you very much, Facebook, but I didn’t need reminding.
So I canceled the notification and clicked on something else. It reminded me again. Okay, so I added those applications back to my feed. Won’t let a little bug stop me from posting a comment on a friend’s wall.
Except now I keep getting this:

I can still post comments (the dialog is not modal), but it’s just … weird.
Later: Closing the Facebook tab in my browser and re-loading fixed the problem.
When describing the problems I was having configuring our new servers, I mentioned that I was going to try using Clonezilla to speed the process. The idea was to get Windows installed and all the other software configured on one machine, and then just clone the drive. Seemed like a good thing to do.
So I fired up Clonezilla, fought through the user interface to tell it what I wanted backed up and where, and then pressed the any key (really! There was a prompt that said, “Press the any key”) to start the copy. Clonezilla promptly told me that my network card wasn’t supported. It would have been nice if it would have checked that when I first started the program.
Slightly discouraged but not yet willing to give up, I decided to try PING. Another cryptic user interface, but I won’t complain too much considering the price. This time my network card was supported and after a couple of house it had created a copy of my partition. So I fired up the next machine, ran PING, told it to copy the partition image to the disk. That went well, too. Except that after I was done, the machine wouldn’t boot. The BIOS doesn’t see a bootable image on the disk.
At that point I gave up. I’d already spent almost a full day futzing with the things. In that time I could have installed and configured all of the machines. (Or so I thought.) In any case, my experiments with free drive cloning software left me disappointed.
There’s a good overview of Ghost alternatives over at pack rat studios, but I haven’t had the opportunity to try any of the others mentioned. Clonezilla didn’t support my hardware, and PING failed for reasons unknown. Anybody know of a package that actually works?
By the way, telling a potential user, “if your network card isn’t supported, download it and compile it into the Clonezilla package” is not likely to be met with smiles and thanks. More likely, users—even technically competent users like me who are capable of downloading and building—are more likely to say, “no thanks,” and move on to something else.
A few weeks ago I said that Cash for Clunkers is a wreck. Now that the program has ended, let’s see the results.
The people responsible for Cash for Clunkers are hailing its success. I’m still having trouble understanding what the goals of the program were beyond a “feel good” measure designed to make people think they’re getting something for nothing from the Obama administration. By that metric, the program was certainly a success: people will remember that Uncle Sam helped them buy a car. Although they might be a little less enthusiastic when they realize that the $4,500 rebate is taxable.
Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood said that U.S. consumers and workers were “the clear winners” under the program:
Manufacturing plants have added shifts and recalled workers. Moribund showrooms were brought back to life and consumers bought fuel-efficient cars that will save them money and improve the environment.
Let’s take a look at those three “successes”:
“Manufacturing plants have added shifts and recalled workers.” Surprisingly true. But with car sales almost certainly going back to below pre-handout levels, I can’t imagine that those workers will be fully employed for very long. Manufacturers will rebuild their inventories, find that people still aren’t buying cars, and then lay off the workers again.
“Moribund showrooms were brought back to life.” Well, yeah. But with no more giveaways, those showrooms are going to be empty of customers yet again.
“…consumers bought fuel-efficient cars that will save them money and improve the environment.” This one is full of specious reasoning. According to press reports, the most popular new vehicle purchased under the program was the Toyota Corolla. So let’s use it for a little thought experiment. But first, let’s construct our “average” purchaser under the program.
We’ll assume that the “average” person drives 40 miles to work and back each day, plus cruising around here and there. Give him 300 miles per week. Also assume that his clunker was paid off and it got 10 miles per gallon. So he’s burning 30 gallons of gas a week. At $2.50 a gallon (current price in the Austin area), that’s $75 per week in gas.
A new 2010 Toyota Corolla lists for between $15,350 and $20,000. I’m going to assume that the cars were bought from dealers’ inventories and that there was a relatively even mix of feature packages, so the average price for a car was $17,500. With the $4,500 rebate, the price of the car is $13,000. I’m going to ignore other incentives and tax, title, and license, figuring that they’d likely cancel each other out. And since the car will be destroyed, there is no trade in value. By the time everything’s said and done, the buyer owes the dealer $13,000 for the car.
The new Corolla gets an estimated 35 MPG on the highway and 27 MPG in the city. Let’s be generous and assume that the guy will average 30 MPG in all of his driving. So at 300 miles per week, he’s burning 10 gallons of gas a week at a cost of $25. Quite a savings over the $75 per week he was burning in the other car. So his monthly outlay for gas is now $100 rather than $300. Such a deal!
Except we forgot to pay for the car. If he pays that $13,000 balance in cash, it’ll take him 65 months (almost five and a half years) to make up the difference with his $200 per month savings in gas. If he gets a loan for that $13,000 (figure 5 years at 5.25%), his monthly payment is $250. So he’s saving $200 per month but it’s costing him $250. That new car that was supposed to save him money is costing him $50 per month. Oh, and don’t forget the $1,000 that rebate is going to cost on next year’s tax return. That’s another five months of “savings”.
Granted, there’s some savings for maintenance because the new car is under warranty. But that savings will be easily offset by the increased cost of insurance on the new car. I’ll call it a wash.
I purposely was very generous with the numbers here in an attempt to make it look like a good deal. I just couldn’t make it work out. In general, you will not come out ahead by buying a new car in the hope that it will “pay for itself” by saving on gas. Unless you drive a lot more than 500 miles per week.
The claim that the new cars will “improve the environment” is wishful thinking. At best, driving the new car will cause less harm to the environment than will continuing to drive the new car. And that statement is based only on the differences in fuel efficiency between the two cars. It does not take into account the environmental costs of manufacturing the new car or disposing of the old car.
There’s no doubt that the Cash for Clunkers program stimulated some economic activity. Whether that was good is another matter entirely. They say that $2.8 billion in incentives were passed out. We’ll round that up to $3 billion to include the cost of administration and other expenses that were incurred but they’re not telling us about. Reports say that almost 700,000 new cars were purchased. If we figure an average price of $20,000 (lots of Camrys were purchased under the program), that $3 billion resulted in $14 billion in direct economic activity. But if we assume that the average loan on those cars was $15,000, then there is $10.5 billion in new consumer debt out there. Not a good thing, in my opinion.
Certainly there are people who benefited from the program: car dealers and manufacturers got a boost, as did those workers who got recalled to the manufacturing plants. Companies making auto loans couldn’t be complaining. But it’s not all roses. Car salvage yards are grumbling a bit because their margins have been slashed: apparently dealers are paying less per car to have them hauled off. And used car sales have plummeted. Only 700,000 cars using one-third the gas probably won’t affect gasoline retailers much. But if it was seven million, I can imagine that convenience stores that depend on gasoline purchases for a large part of their profit would feel the squeeze.
Those who supported Cash for Clunkers can go ahead blindly believing that it was unquestionably a good thing. I’m skeptical. As I showed above, the “deal” almost certainly didn’t result in a savings for most buyers. More importantly, I disagree with the idea that it’s government’s responsibility to prop up a sagging industry. I also don’t believe that the immediately visible positive effects of this program will in the long term offset the negatives that I’ve outlined.
In general, it’s a bad idea to start a file name with a dash (-). For example, a file named --help is going to give you all kinds of trouble. Say you want to rename the file. mv --help help.txt is going to show you the help for the mv command. You’ll have to give it a path name: mv ./--help help.txt.
Say you’re behind a router and you want to know your external IP address. If you have a Web browser, you can go to www.whatismyipaddress.com or one of the scads of similar sites returned by a Google search of “what is my ip address”. But from the Linux command line? The easiest one I found (i.e. the program was already installed) was using wget. The following will show you your external IP address:
wget -O - -q icanhazip.com
By the way, going to http://icanhazip.com from your browser will also tell you your IP address.
If you’re configuring a local DNS cache, you probably don’t want to include your ISP’s DNS servers in the forwarders section of named.conf.options. If you do that, then all DNS requests will be forwarded to your ISP’s DNS server. What you really want is to query the root name servers. Just leave the forwarders blank. You’ll get better performance and you won’t annoy your ISP. Here’s a properly configured forwarders section:
forwarders {
// to query the root name servers,
// don't put any IP addresses in here.
}
Running BIND on the latest Ubuntu release, the root hints file is at /etc/bind/db.root. The root servers change from time to time, so it’s a good idea to keep this file updated. You can get the latest file from ftp://ftp.internic.net/domain/. Three files appear to contain the same information: db.cache, named.cache, and named.root. You can download any one of them, copy it to your /etc/bind/ directory as db.root (after making a copy of the existing file), and then tell BIND to reload its database: sudo rndc reload.